
Charles Kuralt called it the most beautiful drive in America, and then most people plan it like a scenic detour and discover it is a weather-gated, 11,000-foot mountain crossing with no fuel, no cell signal, and a habit of closing for snow in July. The Beartooth Highway climbs from Red Lodge over an alpine plateau of tundra and glacial lakes to Yellowstone's quiet Northeast gate. This issue is about the one date that governs the whole trip, the campgrounds along the corridor, the altitude and the grizzlies — and an honest account of what nobody could confirm.
The rest of this journal is evergreen; this box is not. The Beartooth Highway is not a road you drive whenever you like — it is a seasonal alpine crossing, and the difference between a trip and a locked gate is entirely a matter of dates and weather. Everything below is dated to the day we checked it. Trust the live sources, not our date stamp — and read the Safety section (§07) before you go.
The Beartooth Highway (US-212) runs roughly 68 miles from Red Lodge, Montana, over the Beartooth Plateau to Cooke City and Yellowstone's Northeast Entrance, topping out at the West Summit of Beartooth Pass at 10,947 feet. It is regularly called the most beautiful drive in America, and it earns it — switchbacks, hairpins, tundra, snowfields all summer, and a hundred alpine lakes. But it is a genuine high-mountain crossing, and it punishes the assumptions people bring from ordinary road trips: that the road is always open, that there will be fuel, that the weather at the bottom is the weather at the top. None of those hold here.
Not which overlook, not which lake. Whether the road is open at all. US-212 is open only from late May to mid-October, snow-dependent, and closes temporarily inside that window. Confirm before you commit a drive.
The corridor crosses the Custer Gallatin National Forest (Montana, near Red Lodge) and the Shoshone National Forest (Wyoming, on the plateau). Rules, ranger districts and reservation systems differ by side (§08).
You will sleep near 9,000 feet and drive over 10,900. Afternoon thunderstorms and lightning above treeline are routine, the water is snowmelt-cold, and this is grizzly country. The answer is preparation, not fear (§07).
The Beartooth Highway is the star, but it is only open for roughly five months, and even then it can shut for snow. Understanding its window — and the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway that stays open longer — is the difference between a route that exists and one that doesn't. Get these dates wrong and your plan is a locked gate at 8,000 feet.
| Segment / road | 2026 opens | Closes | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|---|
| Beartooth Highway (US-212), Red Lodge – Cooke City | May 23 (scheduled 22) | Mid-October (2026 date not announced) | The itinerary-maker. The whole plateau — Rock Creek Vista, West Summit, the lakes — hinges on this. Can close for snow any time inside the window |
| US-212, Cooke City – Northeast Entrance (Yellowstone) | Year-round | — | Open all year, but in winter reachable by car only through Yellowstone from Gardiner once the plateau closes |
| Chief Joseph Scenic Byway (WY-296), Dead Indian Pass | Year-round (weather permitting) | — | Stays open far longer than the Beartooth — the shoulder-season exit east to Cody. Can still close in storms |
| West Fork Road (Basin Lakes trailhead, Red Lodge) | Mid-April | Early December | Gated roughly Dec 2 – Apr 14; no drive-in trailhead access in winter |
All dates are weather-dependent. The 2026 Beartooth opening slipped a day for a storm, and the road closes temporarily for snow through the summer. Reconfirm within 72 hours at Montana 511 (mdt.mt.gov/travinfo), WYDOT (wyoroad.info) and the NPS Beartooth Highway page.

A 47-mile road that leaves the Beartooth Highway near Cooke City, climbs over Dead Indian Pass at 8,071 feet, and drops through seven switchbacks into Sunlight Basin and the Clarks Fork Canyon before reaching WY-120 north of Cody. The summit has a turnout with interpretive signs and restrooms and a huge view.
Two reasons to build it into your plan: it is a spectacular drive in its own right — the high Sunlight Creek Bridge over Sunlight Gorge is the highest bridge in Wyoming — and it is the shoulder-season and stormy-day alternative when the Beartooth Plateau is snowed shut. Pairing US-212 in and WY-296 out (or the reverse) makes a superb loop from Cody.
This is the half of the trip people picture: the tundra top of the Beartooth Plateau, strung with pull-offs, glacial lakes and hundred-mile views. These are drive-up or short-walk stops, but every one of them sits high and exposed, and the weather can turn in minutes. Do the high stops in the morning before afternoon storms build over the plateau.
A rest area and interpretive overlook at about 9,190 feet, roughly 21 miles from Red Lodge, with a short (about 0.2-mile) paved, wheelchair-accessible path to a railed platform looking straight down the glacial Rock Creek Canyon toward the Hellroaring Plateau. Restrooms on site. It's the natural first pull-off above the switchbacks and the best accessible viewpoint on the corridor. Allow 20–40 minutes.
Even here you are near 9,200 feet and fully exposed — afternoon lightning is a real risk, so do this early if the sky is building. The paved path is genuinely wheelchair-navigable, a rarity out here.
A classic plateau lake at about 9,000 feet under the banded cliff of Beartooth Butte. Trout fishing, canoeing and kayaking, shoreline picnicking, and a short walk to Beartooth Falls where the outlet drops off the plateau. A first-come campground sits on the shore (§08).
Cold-water reality: plateau lakes stay frigid all summer, and a capsize far from help is serious. There are no services and no lifeguards. Store food securely — this is grizzly country.
At roughly 9,500 feet, Island Lake is the main trailhead into the Beartooth High Lakes — a tundra plateau dotted with dozens of alpine lakes on relatively gentle grades. Day hiking, fly fishing and light backpacking all launch from here, and a first-come campground sits at the lake.
Fully exposed alpine terrain: no shade, afternoon lightning, sudden snow any month, and grizzlies. Trails hold snow into July. Carry a map — the network of spur trails is easy to lose track of.
A Civilian Conservation Corps fire lookout built in 1942, reached by a gravel Forest Service road (FR 142) that climbs about half a mile off US-212 to roughly 9,800 feet. Indoor and outdoor observation decks give sweeping views over the plateau, Beartooth Butte and the Absaroka Range, and a staffed interpretive display is sometimes open in summer.
The spur road is unpaved, high and clears later than the main highway — it can be rough, snow-blocked early season, or gated. Not ideal for low cars or big trailers. Confirm it's open before committing.
The Beartooths hold some of the finest alpine hiking in the Lower 48 — but the terrain is unforgiving: high, exposed, snow-late, and grizzly-inhabited. Distances and elevation figures below are planning estimates gathered from trail guides, not GPS-verified surveys, and where sources disagree we say so. Start early, watch the sky, and hike in groups of three or more with bear spray on your hip.
A short trail dropping from a pull-off near the top of the pass (between the Beartooth Basin ski area and the West Summit) down to Gardner Lake — roughly three-quarters of a mile one way, but descending close to 1,000 feet, so the return is a genuine steep climb. Big alpine-tundra scenery, fishing at the lake, for minimal mileage.
Because you start near 10,800 feet, this is harder than the distance implies — the climb back out at altitude gets people. Snow lingers here into midsummer. Watch the weather; you are fully exposed.
A loop from the Beartooth Lake trailhead that strings together several alpine lakes — commonly Beauty, Crane and Claw — on the tundra plateau. Numerous spur trails let you shorten or extend it, and a point-to-point between Island Lake and Beartooth Lake is possible with a shuttle. Superb fishing and lake scenery throughout.
Published distances vary widely by route — roughly 5 to 8+ miles depending on the loop, so treat any single figure as an estimate and carry a map and compass or GPS. Fully exposed above 9,000 feet: afternoon storms, no shade, cold water, and grizzlies. Snow into July.
A steady forest climb off the West Fork Road southwest of Red Lodge — about 4 miles one way, roughly 2,000+ feet of gain, past Basin Creek Falls to the Lower and Upper Basin Lakes. Ample trailhead parking and a vault toilet; rated moderate, with a high payoff-to-effort ratio. Allow 3–5 hours.
The access West Fork Road is gated roughly December 2 – April 14, so there is no drive-in trailhead access in winter. Grizzly country: hike in groups, make noise, carry spray. Steep, sustained climb — carry water.
One of the great Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness routes from near Red Lodge: the Lake Fork trail climbs the Lake Fork of Rock Creek past waterfalls and alpine lakes (Lost Lake, Keyser Brown Lake) and continues over Sundance Pass into the West Fork — a long, strenuous day or a multi-day backpack with several thousand feet of gain (a through-route is cited around 3,800 feet of climb). Walk the lower valley for an easy family outing, or commit to the full alpine crossing.
Serious grizzly country and serious altitude. Groups of three or more, spray on the hip, noise on blind corners. The upper basin holds snow much of the year. Distances and gain are planning figures, not GPS-verified.

A short trail from the Crazy Creek Campground / trailhead on US-212, about 11 miles east of Cooke City, leads to Crazy Creek Falls — less a single plunge than a long, loud whitewater cascade over granite slabs, at its most thunderous in early-summer snowmelt. An easy family walk to the lower viewpoints.
The terrain above the lower views is steep and the wet rock is lethally slick — keep well back from the edge and keep children close. Grizzly country; make noise. A good leg-stretch on the Cooke City end when the high plateau is fogged in.
Three very different towns anchor this corridor, and choosing your base is a real decision. Red Lodge is a full-service Montana town at the foot of the switchbacks. Cooke City is a tiny, service-thin outpost at Yellowstone's back door. Cody, off to the southeast, is the best resupply on the Wyoming side. Provision deliberately — the gap between them is a slow, high, fuel-free road.
At about 5,600 feet at the northern foot of the highway: real groceries, fuel, fly shops and gear stores, restaurants and breweries, a historic Broadway main street, and Red Lodge Mountain just west (skiing in winter, lift rides and disc golf in summer). This is the last full resupply before the plateau — fuel and provision here. The Rock Creek campgrounds sit 12 miles south.
At about 7,600 feet, roughly a hundred year-round residents, 4 miles from Yellowstone's Northeast Entrance. General stores, a fuel station or two (at a premium), cafes, outfitters and a fly shop — but no full grocery and no hospital. Top off fuel here, but do your real provisioning in Red Lodge or Cody. A genuine dead-end in winter (reachable only through Yellowstone).
A working Wyoming town southeast of the plateau via the Chief Joseph Byway, and the best resupply on the Wyoming side — supermarkets, fuel, a hospital, and long-established outdoor retailers (North Fork Anglers, Sunlight Sports). The natural start or finish for a US-212 / WY-296 loop. Reach the plateau from Cody via the Chief Joseph Byway.

The west end of the Beartooth Highway delivers you, through Cooke City and Silver Gate, to Yellowstone's Northeast Entrance — the least-used of the park's five gates and the doorway to the Lamar Valley, the finest dawn wolf-and-bison country in the park.
We cover the Lamar Valley, the park's campgrounds and the wildlife-watching craft in depth in Trekkr Trail Journal No. 032 — Yellowstone. For this issue the key point is logistical: a Beartooth trip pairs beautifully with dawn in the Lamar, and the Northeast gate is the quiet way in. Standard Yellowstone entrance fees apply.
The highway is the thread; the fabric is one of the largest, wildest expanses of high country in the Lower 48. The Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness spreads across nearly a million acres of alpine plateau, granite peaks and glacial lakes on both sides of the road, and it is home to the full greater-Yellowstone cast — including grizzlies. What you do with that determines whether it's a hazard or the whole point.
Nearly a million acres straddling the Montana-Wyoming line, managed across the Custer Gallatin and Shoshone national forests. It holds the highest peaks in Montana — including Granite Peak (~12,800 ft) — hundreds of alpine lakes, active glaciers, and the broad tundra of the Beartooth Plateau itself.
The highway skirts and crosses its edges, so wilderness begins a short walk from many pull-offs. That is the magic and the responsibility: leave-no-trace practice, proper food storage, and respect for how fast this country can turn dangerous.
The corridor and its wilderness hold grizzly and black bears, moose, elk, mule deer, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, marmots and pika, and — in the adjacent Lamar Valley — wolves. Marmots whistle around the high overlooks; mountain goats work the crags near the passes.
The one that shapes your behaviour is the grizzly. This is core greater-Yellowstone grizzly habitat. Every camping, cooking and hiking decision in this guide is downstream of that fact — see §07 for the rules, which are not optional and, near Cooke City, are legally enforced.
Nobody gets hurt here because the Beartooth is scary. They get hurt because it looks benign from a car on a sunny afternoon, and the four real hazards — altitude, sudden alpine weather, cold water, and grizzlies — don't announce themselves until you're committed. This section is not padding. Read it before you leave the pavement.
You will drive over 10,947 feet and sleep near 9,000. Altitude sickness is common above a mile: headache, nausea, shortness of breath, dizziness, poor sleep. It hits fit people too.
Give yourself an easy first day, hydrate hard, ease off alcohol, and descend if symptoms build. A short hike that would be trivial at home is a real effort at 10,000 feet — pace everything, and know that the climb back out of places like Gardner Lake is where people feel it.
Winter weather is possible in every month — snow on the plateau in July is normal, not exotic, and the road itself closes for it. Afternoon thunderstorms build fast, and above treeline you are the tallest thing around.
Start high hikes early and be off exposed ground by early afternoon. Turn around if the sky builds; do not push to a summit or an overlook into a storm. Pack a warm layer, a hat and rain shell even on a bluebird morning — the temperature at the West Summit can be 20–30°F colder than in Red Lodge.
This is core greater-Yellowstone grizzly country, and the greater-Yellowstone bear-safety record is blunt: the large majority of people injured by bears were hiking alone or in pairs. Group size is the single most effective thing you control.
1. Hike in groups of three or more. 2. Make noise — especially near running water, in brush, on blind corners. 3. Carry EPA-approved bear spray in a hip or chest holster, not your pack, and know how to use it. 4. Never run from a bear — running triggers pursuit. Stay 100 yards from any bear.
✈️ Flying in? You cannot bring bear spray — it's prohibited in both checked and carry-on baggage and can't be air-shipped. Buy it locally on arrival (Red Lodge, Cooke City, Cody all sell it).
The Custer Gallatin food-storage order runs March 1 – December 1 across these districts. Compliant storage: a hard-sided vehicle or trailer with windows closed; an IGBC-certified bear canister; or hung at least 10 feet up and 4 feet out. Violators can be cited and held liable.
A rooftop or soft-sided tent is NOT legal food storage, even where tent camping is allowed. And the attractant list is broad — food, coolers, cookware, empty flavoured-drink bottles, sunscreen, lip balm, toothpaste and medications all go in the bear box or the vehicle. Store the sunscreen with the food.
Shoshone NF (the Wyoming side) carries its own orders — the specifics vary by district and we could not verify all of them, so check the Clarks Fork Ranger District before you rely on any of it.
The plateau lakes and creeks are snowmelt: dangerously cold all summer. A capsize far from help is life-threatening, and there are no lifeguards and effectively no fast rescue. Wear a PFD on the water, keep children close at waterfalls and outlets, and treat all backcountry water before drinking.
Switchbacks, hairpins, steep grades and cliff-edge exposure, often with cyclists and motorcycles. Use low gears on the descents to save your brakes, watch for gravel and frost-heave, and pull fully into designated overlooks to take in the view — never stop in the travel lane. Fog and sudden squalls cut visibility fast.
There is no hospital in Red Lodge or Cooke City. The nearest hospitals are Billings, MT (north of Red Lodge) and Cody, WY (southeast). From the plateau, help is hours away and cell coverage is nil. Carry a first-aid kit, tell someone your plan, and consider a satellite messenger for backcountry travel.
The corridor's campgrounds split into three groups by elevation and forest: the low Custer Gallatin campgrounds in the Rock Creek drainage near Red Lodge, the high Shoshone lakes on the Wyoming plateau, and a cluster near Cooke City where hard-sided rules apply. Nearly all are first-come or partly first-come, and the high ones open late and close early. As with the Yellowstone issue, we print the least where our sources were weakest: fs.usda.gov blocked automated retrieval, so most fees and exact season dates are omitted rather than guessed — confirm on Recreation.gov.
| Campground | Sites | Water | Toilets | Reservations | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Parkside | 28 (26 single + 2 group) | Yes (drinking) | Vault | Mostly Recreation.gov; some first-come | Largest of the three; National Recreation Trail & creek fishing nearby. Best reservation base |
| Greenough Lake | 18 | Hand pump | Vault | Mixed (Rec.gov + first-come) | Streamside; lake fishing steps away |
| Limber Pine | 12 | Hand pump | Vault | Mixed (Rec.gov + first-come) | Beside Greenough Lake; small and quiet |
All three sit at roughly 7,000 ft in the Rock Creek drainage, about 12 miles south of Red Lodge, and open earlier than the plateau campgrounds. No hookups, no showers, no dump station. Book and price at recreation.gov — we could not confirm 2026 fees against an official source.
| Campground | ~Elev. | Sites | Water | Reservations | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Beartooth Lake | ~9,000 ft | ~21 | Hand pump (potable) | First-come only | Lakeshore under Beartooth Butte. RV/trailer ~32 ft. Late June – early Sept. Bear boxes |
| Island Lake | ~9,500 ft | ~20 | Hand pump (potable) | First-come only | High Lakes trailhead. Not for big rigs — steep pitch, tight sites. Late June – late Aug. Bear boxes |
| Crazy Creek | lower | 16 | None — carry water | First-come only | 11 mi E of Cooke City; short trail to Crazy Creek Falls. A sheltered fallback when the high lakes are snowed in |
| Fox Creek | ~7,000 ft | Hand pump | First-come only | 7 mi E of Cooke City. ~33 sites, electric at some. Reported HARD-SIDED ONLY (grizzly) — confirm before booking a tent |
The plateau campgrounds are first-come, first-served with a 16-day limit, and their season is short and snow-gated — Beartooth and Island typically don't open until late June and close by early September. No reservations, no hookups (bar Fox Creek's partial electric), no showers, no dump. All are grizzly country: use the bear boxes. Fees reported around $15 (Island) and $25 (Beartooth) by secondary sources, not confirmed officially.
| Campground | Tent OK? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Soda Butte · Colter · Chief Joseph | NO — hard-sided units only | East of Cooke City on US-212. Tents and pop-ups prohibited since a fatal 2010 grizzly attack at Soda Butte. First-come. Verify current dates and the standing order with the Gardiner Ranger District |
The plateau has essentially no services — that's much of its appeal, and the whole of its risk. Two facts do most of the planning work: there is no gas in the 68 miles between Red Lodge and Cooke City, and there is no reliable cell coverage across the plateau. Everything else follows from those.
There is no fuel on the plateau — none in the 68 miles between Red Lodge and Cooke City. Fill up in Red Lodge (full service) or top off in Cooke City (limited stations, premium prices). On the Wyoming side, Cody is the reliable fuel town. Carry enough to do the plateau, the side spurs, and any detour with margin — and remember the climb burns more than the map suggests.
Red Lodge and Cody have real groceries; Cooke City has only general stores, and there is nothing on the plateau but the Top of the World Store (snacks, drinks, fishing permits, souvenirs — a convenience stop, not a resupply). Provision a full trip in Red Lodge or Cody before you commit to the corridor.
Coverage across the plateau is effectively nil, and patchy even in the towns. Download offline maps before you climb, tell someone your route and expected return, and don't count on navigation or a 911 call from the high country. A satellite messenger is worth it for backcountry days.
Sold at gear shops, general stores and gas stations in Red Lodge, Cooke City and Cody. We are not printing a purchase price — no reliable current figure is published and the numbers circulating are secondary. Carry it in a hip or chest holster, not your pack, keep it out of a hot car (it can burst above ~120°F), and check the expiry date.
Flying in? You cannot bring it — prohibited in checked and carry-on baggage, and it can't be air-shipped as hazmat. Buy on arrival. Plan to leave it behind or gift it when you go.
On the plateau you need the appropriate state licence — Montana on the MT side, Wyoming on the WY side. This is the reverse of inside Yellowstone, where a park permit rules and state licences aren't valid. The Cooke City Store's Trout Rider fly shop sells MT, WY and Yellowstone licences in one stop.
Fly shops and guides operate out of Red Lodge (e.g. Rocky Fork Outfitters, Sylvan Peak, Beartooth Mountain Guides for the high country), Cooke City (Beartooth Plateau Outfitters, the Cooke City Store) and Cody (North Fork Anglers, Sunlight Sports). Guided-trip pricing we could not verify — confirm with the shop.
| Gateway town | Approx. elev. | Real grocery? | Fuel? | Hospital? | The character |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Red Lodge, MT | ~5,600 ft | Yes | Yes (full) | No — Billings | The base camp. Groceries, fuel, fly shops, gear, breweries, a ski hill. Last full resupply before the plateau |
| Cooke City / Silver Gate, MT | ~7,600 ft | No — general stores | Limited, premium | None | Tiny outpost, 4 mi from Yellowstone's NE gate. Top off fuel, don't rely on resupply. Dead-end in winter |
| Cody, WY | ~5,000 ft | Yes — supermarkets | Yes | Yes | Best resupply on the WY side. Outdoor retailers, hospital. Reach the plateau via the Chief Joseph Byway |
Unlike Yellowstone, which is a year-round destination, the Beartooth Plateau is functionally a summer place — the high road simply doesn't exist the rest of the year. Within that window, the useful season is shorter than the calendar suggests, because the high campgrounds and trails stay snowbound weeks after the road opens.
The road: late May to mid-October, snow-gated (2026 opened May 23). The high campgrounds and trails: realistically July through early September — Beartooth and Island lakes don't open until late June, and plateau trails hold snow into July.
The honest sweet spot: mid-July to mid-September. Wildflowers peak on the tundra in July; September brings fewer people, cooler air and fall colour in the aspen down low — but watch the calendar, because an early storm can close the road before the mid-October norm. Any month can bring snow up high.
This is an editorial synthesis, not an official itinerary — but every element is sequenced against two hard constraints: the road is snow-gated and can close on you, and the high stops reward a morning start before afternoon storms. Base low near Red Lodge, day-trip the plateau, and finish over the Chief Joseph Byway or into the Lamar. Check the road status every morning.
Run it before you leave. Tap each item as it's done — these are the ten things specific to the Beartooth that a general road-trip habit will skip. Almost all come back to three facts: the road is seasonal and can close, the plateau has no services, and this is high-altitude grizzly country.
Every guide has these. Most don't print them. The Beartooth is unusually well documented in some respects and unusually opaque in others — the highway's status changes daily, and the federal-forest pages that hold the campground details blocked automated retrieval throughout our research. Everything below was last checked on 21 July 2026. A confident wrong number costs more than an admitted gap.
Everything above, condensed into a print-ready PDF built for the glovebox — for a road with no cell signal, no fuel and a season that opens and closes on the weather. The full seasonal road window and the Chief Joseph alternative; every campground on the Custer Gallatin and Shoshone corridors with amenities and the hard-sided-only bear rules; the plateau overlooks, lakes and passes; the altitude, weather, cold-water and grizzly reality; the gateway towns and fuel plan; and the honest list of what nobody could confirm — on paper that works where the signal doesn't.
Every Trekkr Trail Journal is built like this one: custom logistics, honest trail beta, the camping and access detail, and the local knowledge that turns a good trip into the one your crew talks about for years — including, always, a plain list of what we could not confirm. New destinations drop all season long, from the BC corridors to the Oregon Cascades to the Alberta badlands to the Beartooth Plateau.
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